Surfactants in cosmetics: What do they do and how to choose the right one for your products?

Anionic, non-ionic, cationic, or amphoteric surfactants… Natural or synthetic versions… Debates around ingredients like Sodium Lauryl Sulfate are on the rise…

Are you planning to create your own cosmetic line or collaborate with a cosmetic manufacturer, but overwhelmed by all the information? Have you spent hours trying to understand it all but feel lost in the forest of facts? Don’t worry, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know about the role of surfactants and how they fit into cosmetic formulation!

What Are Surfactants, Exactly?

Have you noticed that almost every cosmetic product contains surfactants? But do you know why?

A surfactant (also known as a surface-active agent, detergent, or cleansing base) is a key ingredient in the creation of cleansing cosmetics. These substances are able to bind to the interface between water and poorly soluble substances like oils. Simply put: they allow oil and water to mix and help keep formulas homogeneous and stable.

Without surfactants, it would be impossible to create a stable blend of oil and water in products like shampoos or shower gels.

Which Surfactants Should You Use? Advice From Your Belgian Manufacturer

Surfactants do more than just help ingredients mix. They also create foam, cleanse, and act as emulsifiers. That’s why it’s crucial to choose the right surfactant when formulating a cosmetic product.

There are many types, both synthetic and natural. In cosmetic production labs, you’ll typically encounter the following categories:

Anionic surfactants, such as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate or Sodium Coco Sulfate, which generate a lot of foam but often irritate the skin. They’re inexpensive and widely used in mainstream cosmetics.

Cationic surfactants, like Behentrimonium Methosulfate, which can be highly irritating and are generally incompatible with anionic ingredients. Mostly used in hair care, they can weigh hair down and are poorly tolerated by sensitive skin.

Amphoteric surfactants, such as Cocamidopropyl Betaine (or Coco Betaine), derived from coconut, known for being gentle and highly versatile.

Non-ionic surfactants, such as Coco-Glucoside, which are mild on skin and environmentally friendly, suitable for a wide range of formulations.

You can combine them too. For example, soften a harsh anionic surfactant by blending it with a mild amphoteric or non-ionic one.

Another important concept is the HLB value (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance), which indicates whether a surfactant blends better with fats or water. A value between 0 and 3 refers to anti-foaming agents, while 13 to 15 indicates strong detergents. A good lab takes this into account when developing your formula.

In short: making cosmetics is far from child’s play!

Pas si simple de choisir le bon tensioactif pour un fabricant cosmétique

Watch Out for Controversial Ingredients – A Warning for Brands

Thanks to apps that analyze cosmetic formulations, consumers are increasingly aware of problematic ingredients. Concerns are growing around substances linked to allergies, irritation, or even cancer risks. As a result, more people are turning to DIY beauty products.

Making your own cosmetics gives you full control over what goes onto your skin. By using natural, organic ingredients, you care for your body in a healthier, more environmentally friendly way. You can also personalize products for your skin or hair needs—from lip balms to hair masks. It’s a conscious and natural approach to beauty.

However, surfactants remain a delicate subject. Those derived from petrochemicals can be irritating and have a significant ecological impact. They are poorly biodegradable and often end up in the oceans through wastewater, harming algae and marine life.

Conclusion: better to avoid them—for your health and the planet.

Pour une fabrication produits cosmetiques sur-mesure, aidez-vous de professionnels

Choose Natural Surfactants for Your Production

Long before synthetic detergents, our grandparents used natural cleansers like soap nuts, which contain saponins, plant-based surfactants. Over time, they fell out of use, but maybe it’s time to bring them back into our beauty routines.

Prefer surfactants of natural origin (such as those based on sugars or plant sources). They’re gentler on the skin and hair, and don’t harm the environment.

Sounds like a win-win, right? Well, here’s the catch: the mildest surfactants—like Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate (from the acylglutamate group)—are also the most expensive. That’s why you rarely see them in conventional cosmetics, where cost plays a major role. Fortunately, more natural brands are prioritizing quality over price.

After all, let’s be honest: you can’t offer the cheapest product and the purest quality. You have to choose what you stand for.

Partnering With a Cosmetic Lab: A Smart Choice

Still feeling a bit uncertain after all this info? Then perhaps it’s time to team up with a cosmetic production laboratory, like Anybrand Cosmetic.

As a manufacturer of organic and natural cosmetics, we guide you from A to Z. You’ll work closely with our formulation experts, and your products can be certified organic (Ecogarantie), if you wish. Our surfactants are carefully selected in line with our sustainability values. (And yes, there’s a good chance you’ll find those soap nuts in our formulas 😉)

Now you not only know how cosmetics are made, but also how to bring them to market safely and sustainably.

One Last Thing…

Surfactants are important—but they’re only one part of your formula. You’ll also need to make thoughtful choices about active ingredients, thickeners, emollients, preservatives, and more.

At Anybrand Cosmetic, your natural cosmetics manufacturer, we take care of the entire process. So… are you ready to get started?

Pour fabriquer produits de beauté, choisissez les bons ingrédients